Another windy night and ferries diverted to Agnonta. There is a definite end of season feeling here now – the breakfast honey has run out; all the outdoor chairs in the hotel are disappearing; the bar is emptying; the hot water is becoming elusive; with luck, we’ll have gone before they start stripping the beds.

We decided to have another bash at Palouki, now officially on the grudge list after our failure to climb it on Monday. This time we ignored the completely bizarre route from Skopelos Trails and simply set off up the hill following the map. An hour and a half later we were on top. It was well worth it. Palouki knocks the socks off Delphi, its higher brother. The top feels like a real hill, and the views are stupendous. By some miracle, the powers that be have actually managed to avoid plonking the sodding great communications masts on the top, and have chosen a slightly lower outlying peak.

From the top we headed on down the other side of the island, then curved back along rough roads round the monasteries. There was still no sign of Heather’s path. We couldn’t find another short cut shown on the map, but a convenient firewatcher told us firmly the path was “closed”. The weather alternated between sunshine and cloudy, but there was a stiff breeze which made for great walking conditions.

Back down at our corner bakery for ice creams. The bakery too has shrunk overnight, with the outermost rows of tables and chairs packed away, and plastic curtains now keeping the wind at bay. We missed seeing Rachel and Lizzie off, as their 16:15 ferry had been diverted to Agnonta. They were traveling home courtesy of ATOL, who had laid on a plane from Skiathos to Gatwick to bring stranded holidaymakers home, followed by a coach journey to Manchester. Bit of a strange end to a wedding with the bride and groom heading home on totally different routes… but then expect the unexpected here.

Dinner with Pat and Sue to round off the evening – they have joined us in the Ionia Hotel for the night, as we all have an extra day in Skopelos thanks to the failure of Exel. Alarm clocks and mobiles set to go off at 05:30 to start the long journey home.

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